Improvement in machines for making trimmings



Inventur.

,.llf.. I l

Witnesses,

UNITED STATI-3s PATENT FFICE.

EUGENE JOSEPH LAURENT, OF FRANCE.

IMPROVEMENT IN MACHINES FOR MAKING TRIMMINGS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 38,3 l2, dated April 28, 1863.

To all whom it mol/y concern:

Be it known that I, EUGENE J osErH LAU- RENT, a subject of the Emperor of France, now residing in the city, county, and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Machine for Manufacturing Dress-Trimming; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of my said invention, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure l represents a plan of a machine embodying all parts of my invention, the parts which are under the table-top being represented by dotted lines. Fig. 2 represents an end view of the same. Fig. 3 represents a top of a portion of the pattern-block of the full size, and Fig. 4 represents the same with a short piece of trimming upon it.

The object of my invention is to facilitate the manufacture of trimmings which are made of gimp, braid, or cord curved into various patterns and secured permanently in said patterns by connecting the parts together with thread. Y

To this end the first part of my invention consists of a rotating pattern-block, the periphery vof which is fitted with pins or other projections, arranged in such manner as to furnish a support on which the cord can be curved into the pattern desired, and retained there until the parts are secured together either by sewing or other means. `This pattern-block rotates upon au axis, so that it can be turned as the trimming is completed, thus furnishing an endless support for the trimming.

lhe second part of my invention consists in the combination of said rotating pattern-block with means for holding it in any desired position, so that the rotating pattern-block may be xed while the operatorie Workin g a length of trimming, but may be turned at will to present an unoccupied portion of the rim in a convenient position for working upon.

The third part of my invention consists in the combination of the said rotating patternblock with a -cord-tension, to hold the longitudinal foundation-cord of the trimming, to which the curved transverse cords are secured.

The fourth part of my invention consists in the combination of the said rotating patternblock with one or more supports for bobbins for threads, upon which beads are strung, or

for other ornamental threads or cord which is worked into the trimming.

The fifth part of my invention consists in the combination of said rotating pattern-block With a holder for supporting the same independently of the operator.

rllhe sixth part of my invention consists in the combination of said rotating pattern-block with a stripper, which strips off the nished trimming as the pattern-block is rotated to shift the surface upon which the trimming is made.

All the parts of my invention are embodied in the machine represented in the accompanying drawings. The rotating pattern-block A is formed of a disk of wood iitted to turn upon a central axis. The rim of this disk is studded with pins c c, arranged in the desired pattern, and the rim should be just broad enough, as shown in full size at Fig. 4, to permit the trimming to be formed upon it, because the narrower it is the more space is afforded for the hands in the operation of securing the members of the trimming to each other by sewing or otherwise. In order to secure the pattern-block in any desired position so as to hold it stationary during the operation of setting up and securing the trimming, it is perforated transversely with a circular series of holes,z' i, which, by turning the patternblock, are brought in succession opposite a pair of corresponding holes in the cheek-pieces that sustain the axle b, on which the patternblock is mounted, so that by passing a pin, d, through the cheek-pieces and one of the holes ofthe pattern-block the latter may be held from rotating. The pin and holes in the pattern-block and cheek-pieces thus constitute the means for holding the' rotating patternblock in any desired position.

The best method of forming sewed trimming with which I am acquainted is to secure the curved cords which form the pattern to longitudinal cords or foundation, which thus connect all the curved members together, and these foundation-cords are arranged in pairs, one cord of each pair being at the upper side of the fabric, and the other at its lower side.

In order to apply the under foundation-cord With facility, a bobbin,f, is provided, on which the foundation cord is wound, and from which it is drawn ofi' as required, and it is fitted with a tension to retard the unwinding, so that the foundation-cord shall always be under tension. The tension in this instance is formed by coiling a cord, g, upon the arbori of the bobbin in the opposite direction to the foundation-cord, and securing a weight, h, to it so .that the weight is raised as the foundation-cord is unwound.

It is customary to ornament trimmings with beads, and these are applied to it by strin gin g them upon threads which are worked into the fabric. In order to furnish a ready means of holding such threads, two bobbin-supports, m m, are secured to the cheek-pieces N in convenient positions to hold the bobbins.

In making trimmings it is of great importance for the sake of rapid work that the pattern-block should be supported independently of the operator, so that the latter can use both hands freely, and can also change the positions of the body or feet as may be necessary or convenient. In order to furnish this independent support for the rotating patternblock, I have connected it with a table, P, in the present example, by securing the cheekpieces N permanently to the table, which thus constitutes an independent holder to the machine, but, as the permanent connection of the pattern-block with a table renders the machine too bulky for convenient removal from place to place, I have combined the rotating pattern-block with a screw-clamp similar to those which are used for securing reels to tables by securing the cheekpieces N to said clamp, so that the clamp constitutes a holder by which the machine may be secured to an ordinary table or stationary object, and held independently of the operator.

In order to facilitate the removal of the finished trimming from the rotating patternblock, I have combined it with a stripper. The

stripper in the present instance consists of a the holder or table P. Hence, when therotatin g pattern-block is turned in the direction of the arrow t in the drawings, the point of the stripper enters under the trimming upon the pattern-block and causes it to rise from the pattern-pins.

The machine thus described .is used in the following manner: The operator sits facing the machine. The rotating pattern-block is made fast by passing the pin d through one of the series of holes c'. In commencing the work the end of the under foundation-cord is drawn from beneath the pattern-block up its front side and made fast to one of the patternpins. Then the pattern-cord is curved to and 1ro crosswise upon the uppermost patternpins in the desired pattern, and the coilD or bobbin of cord is permitted to hang down in front of the pattern-block. The upper foundation-cord is secured at its end to the end of the lower one by sewing, and is drawn forward over the curved cord, after which the curved parts of the trimming thus set up upon the patternpins are secured to the foundation-cords by knotting the members together by hand with a needle and thread. If beads are to be worked into the trimming, they are strung upon threads, which, for convenience, are wound upon bobbins supported on the supports m m, and before knotting the cords together the threads holding the beads are placed in their proper positions in the fabric; then the whole is secured by knotting. Whenever the trimming set up on the upper part of the rotating pattern-block is completed, the pattern-block is unfastened by removing the pin d, and is turned on its axis in the direction of the arrow tto presentan unoccupied portion of its periphery to receive an additional length of trimming, after which it is again made fast; and when a stripper is used the act of turning the pattern-block strips off the finished fabric from that part of -the pattern-block which passes the stripper.

I find it convenient to use rotating patternblocks, about twelve inches in diameter, and to vary their breadth according to the breadth of the trimming to be made; also, to have a separate rotating pattern-block for each pattern of trimming, so as to obviate the necessity of changing the positions of the patternpins or projections.

I have described pins as being used to hold the cord in the desired pattern until the parts are secured to each other, but any projections from the pattern-block which will hold the cord in its position will answer the purpose. I have also described the parts of the trimming as secured by threads knotted by means of a needle, but the means of securing is no part of my invention, and may be changed as found expedient.

Any suitable thread-tension may be used in place of the one described, and in case the stationary table P is not used the two cheekpieces N N may be mounted upon a board, which may be set upon a table or upon the lap of the operator.

Having thus described a machine embodying my invention, what I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, 1s-

1. A rotating pattern-block fitted with projections suitable for holding trimming until its members are fastened together, the design of the trimming being determined by the arrangement of said projections.

2. The combination of said rotating pattern-block with means for holding it from turning, the whole operating substantially as herein set forth.

3. The combination of said rotating patternblock with a-cord-tension, the whole operating substantially as herein set forth.

4. The combination 0f said rotating patterntern block with a stripper, the -Whole operatblock with one or more supports for threading substantially as herein set forth.

bobbins7 substantially as herein set forth. In testimony whereof 1 have hereunto sub- 5. The combinationof said rotating patternscribed my name.

block with a holder for supporting the same, E. J. LAURENT.

the Whole operating substantially as herein Witnesses:

set forth. M. BACHMANN,

6. The cornbn ation of the said rotating pat- WM.- LEE. 

